Another London College of Fashion 2010 graduate. This time it's Rosy Sukkar. I've been interested in using knitted elements in footwear for a little while now and this is a fine example of what can be done.
Styles that distort the foot are always impressive (Alexander McQueen s/s 10) and this is something Maison Martin Margiela f/w 10 played with quite well. I love how the shape of the top examples are fairly subtle but still very awkward and how the woodgrain leather on the first shoe enhances the shape even more.
Elsa Schiaparelli, Shoe Hat, (collaboration with Salvador Dalí), winter 1937-38. Wool felt.
One of the many amazing contributions to fashion by Elsa Schiaparelli (including inventing the wedge!) More on Schiaparelli from Wikipedia:
Elsa Schiaparelli (10 September 1890 — 13 November 1973) was an Italian fashion designer. Along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival, she is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars. Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Alberto Giacometti. Her clients included the heiress Daisy Fellowes and actress Mae West.
Schiaparelli did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and her business closed in 1954.
Schiaparelli was an innovative woman and fashion designer. She had a lot of “firsts” in the fashion industry. Her career began with her introduction of graphic knitwear to the world of fashion with knit patterns and emblems. These led to her fanciful prints of body parts, food, and many more unusual themes. She was the first to use brightly colored zippers, appearing first on her sportswear in 1930 and again five years later on her evening dresses. Not only was she the first to use brightly colored zippers, but she was also the first to have them dyed to match the material used in her garments. She was the first to create and use fanciful buttons that looked more like brooches. They came in the shapes of peanuts, bees, and even ram’s heads. In Parisian fashion, she invented culottes, introduced Arab breeches, embroidered shirts, wrapped turbans, pompom-rimmed hats, barbaric belts, the “wedge,” a soled shoe that would trend through the 20th century and into the next, and mix-and-match sportswear, the concept of which would not be fully recognized for another forty to fifty years. While her innovations in fashion design were numerous, it was her creation of the runway show as we know it today that was most influential. Her modern idea of a fashion show included a runway with music and art, and the use of elongated, shapeless women as models. She believed that this boyish figure would best display the clothing. Many people do not realize the true sum of her impact on fashion and the fashion industry.
A little while ago I did a post about Hooves. Well these 'Chiron' boots by London College of Fashion 2010 graduate Harriet Holt are more full-on than any from the last post. The hair and the quilting and the straps. They even attach to a corset. Bloody hell.
Mold injected with foam EVA and light as a feather, the 'Fitzsimmons' by Native is a durable, easy to clean and more eco-friendly hiking boot. Sort of like a gum boot (rain boot, wellington) and hiking boot cross. They're kinda cute.
I have not had much luck over the last few days in my research. It's disheartening to look at so many shoes and not find anything interesting or beautiful or (please, please, please) both. This is, after all, the purpose of this blog - to collect all the footwear I think is worth looking at into the one place. There are so many amazing shoes out there but sometimes it feels like looking for a needle in a haystack... made of shit. Well I almost punched the air when, after all this, I find 2010 Cordwainers Footwear design graduate Helen Furber's 'Icica' boot. Interesting (and beautiful) design, technically brilliant and made with sustainability in mind they restore my hope in the world of footwear design. See more aboout them at Style Bubble & I Don't Eat Bread, and at Helen's own blog Shoe Kitchen which gives a great insight into the process behind making these lovelies. I may be covered in poo, but I've got my needle.